Basilica di Santa Chiara
San Damiano Cross in the Chapel at the Basilica of Santa Chiara in Assisi
The Basilica of Saint Clare began to be built in 1257, just four years after her death and two years after her canonization. Saint Clare had initially been buried in the ancient church of Saint George in 1253, along with her mentor St. Francis, who was buried there in 1226. Her body was moved and placed under the high altar of the new Basilica in 1260, and the church received its solemn consecration in 1265.
My husband and I attended the early January, pre-dawn Mass in the St. George Chapel, and we had the joy of listening to the cloistered sisters chant the Mass.
The original San Damiano Cross rests above the altar in this Chapel, and it was so inspiring to experience Mass under the same Cross that called St. Francis to a life of service in building the Church. Ironically, the ancient church of San Damiano where St. Francis experienced his calling, only has a replica of the San Damiano cross. The St. George Chapel in the Basilica felt particularly holy that morning, as it was only my husband and I, along with two other visitors, at Mass with the sisters. It was such a quiet moment, and very different from attending a Mass at one of the Vatican Chapels, or other large Italian Basilica.
The Basilica itself is not very ornate. Maybe because it was the winter season, the main church and high altar felt rather dark and heavy to me. The crypt under the high altar holds the mortal remains of Saint Clare. In the late 1980s, the current reliquary was built in the form of St. Clare resting in the traditional habit of her sisters. Visitors to the crypt are only able to see the reliquary. However, visiting sisters from the Poor Clares order are able to see the remaining 57 bones of the Saint through an opening specifically designed for them on the left side of the reliquary.
Travel Tips:
The Basilica di Santa Chiara is in the ancient, walled section of the city of Assisi. It is important to know that the Assisi train station is in the valley below the ancient walled city, several miles down a long windy road. If you travel to Assisi by train, you will need to catch a taxi, Uber, or local bus to get up to the old city. If you travel to Assisi by car, I recommend parking in one of the lots just outside the walled city. The streets of the old city are very, very narrow, and not only are they only one lane wide, they are often filled with pedestrian tourists.
We had our favorite dinner of our entire Italy trip in Assisi. A priest friend of ours had recommended Trattoria Pallotta, and we found the restaurant down alley off of one the main street near the center of the ancient city. The food was delicious! My husband and adult children said the local wine was even better. Everything on the menu is traditional and fresh from the local Umbrian region. The simple, exposed-stone decor, and lovely minimalist table settings made us feel like we had stepped back into1860 when the restaurant was founded.
As a frequent traveler to Italy since my college days, I never had the opportunity to go to Assisi before this trip. I am so happy that my family and I took the time to journey to the mountains of Umbria to see this holy place. Ancient Assisi is so peaceful, clean, and simple in its beauty. I highly recommend that any Christian and/or lover of history make the journey to experience Assisi for themselves.
